Garage do-it-yourself: types, from what and how to build, scheme with video
Posted On 19.03.2021
The presence of its own garage allows you to conveniently solve a large number of everyday household problems. To build all the needs, you can build a garage with your own hands and take into account individual wishes when erected. The variations of building materials and modern design solutions open the ability to build various types of garages with a complete complex of amenities.
Garage rooms are classified into several categories. The list of species includes the following:
Garages that are used as a parking space for a car. In such premises, it is not necessary to fulfill additional work on insulation and finishing.
Workshops, where the owners store tools and work. For convenience in the buildings, heating is carried out and the workspace is equipped.
Warehouse garages used exclusively for storing various things.
By the way of arrangement, the construction is divided into separately standing and which are part of the array or the main building. During the construction of the garage, it is necessary to determine in advance whether it will play the role of an extension or act as a separate element.
What you need to consider when planning
Before the immediate start of construction, it is recommended to prepare a schematic plan and drawings. During the construction, a wide range of factors, on which the dimensions of the construction, used construction materials and tools depend.
Number of cars
Depending on the number of machines that are supposed to be at the same time to leave in the garage depends on the construction area. During construction, it is important to provide cars free entry and exit, as well as calculate the height of the ceiling, taking into account the size of the transport.
The required building materials, wall thickness, the need for insulation and internal arrangement depend on the purpose of using the garage . In case of changes in the purpose of purpose during operation of the garage, restructuring, the seal of the walls and the arrangement of the working space is allowed.
With pit or without
The presence of a hole at the base of the garage allows you to repair the bottom of the car with convenience. A deeper pit can be used as a storage for winter blanks, tools and other utensils. Decide on the presence of a pit is necessary at the planning stage, since in the case of a concrete basis, the pit is problematic.
The main stage in the preparation of the plan or the construction scheme is the determination of the design dimensions. By asking the question, where to start the calculation of the sizes, it is necessary to specify the purpose of the structure. If the garage is used only for the car parking, the sizes can make more dimensions of the car per meter in width and length. If repair work is planned inside the room and the observation pit will need or the lift, it is desirable to leave the minimum on each side.
To create a workshop in the garage, it is allowed to increase the size of your own. Restrictions are only available area and budget for construction.
Necessary materials and tools
For the construction of the garage you need to purchase construction materials and a set of tools. To build the construction, the main building material is required, from which walls will be built, as well as concrete, plaster, finishing materials, wooden bars and metal sheets.
A specific list of materials depends on the type of construction. In addition to the listed materials, it is necessary to prepare a lift if heavy blocks, a spatula, self-tapping screws, a construction level and a roulette, a screwdriver and a number of standard tools are used.
What can be built from
For the construction of the garage you need to decide on what walls will be performed. Among the common variants of the materials are the following:
Brick - durable and reliable material that simply stacked and does not require the use of specialized equipment;
reinforced concrete - used to create collapsible structures;
slag concrete - affordable option, in comparison with brick, but making work more laborious;
Metal - durable material designed to quickly build construction.
To select the appropriate option, it is recommended to explore the characteristics of all possible materials. Different options have individual characteristics, advantages and disadvantages.
Wooden garages are suitable for suburban areas where high degree of protection is not required. The main advantages of the construction of wooden bars include: small costs of building materials, simplicity of installation, the possibility of partial parsing for restructuring. The disadvantages of the structures are minimal protected from external factors, low heat and noise insulating characteristics, a tendency to rot, the appearance of fungus.
Built from brick garages are distinguished by reliability and durability. A relatively small brick weight simplifies the process of installation and transportation of building materials. Brick structures do not require additional decorative trim and can be used as a workshop for a wide list of works. During the construction of a structure of bricks, the following points must be taken into account:
The load should be evenly distributed over the entire area of the garage.
Only one laying scheme should be used. For non-professional builders, a multi-row scheme is preferred.
For additional strength, reinforcement is performed - the strengthening of the walls with metal structures.
The use of slag block allows you to build a garage cheaper than when using other materials. The slagoblock is made by pressing concrete. The secondary components when creating a material are a domain slag and ash. To increase the thermal conductivity indicator add clamzit and polystyrene.
The density of the material depends on the composition. There are full and hollow blocks of blocks. Despite the available price, slag blocks are distinguished by a high standard of strength, resistance to ignition and long period of operation.
The corrugated sheets of professional flooring are galvanized rolled steel. The material is used as a wall coating when the garages are erected. The main advantages of the professional flooring are:
Simple installation. Light designs are convenient to fasten each other without the use of specialized equipment and additional processing.
Small cost. In comparison with a number of other materials, the cost of purchasing professional flooring is significantly less.
Durability. Regardless of the external influence, the average period of operation of the finished design is 40 years.
Foam concrete is valued for high strength and low thermal conductivity. When using the material for the construction of the garage, additional thermal insulation will not be required.
The disadvantage is insufficient permeability, due to which condensate can be formed in the room. In order to protect the car in the indoor foam blocks, it will be necessary to further build the supply and exhaust ventilation using a cooler functioning on an electrical drive. This procedure will entail unnecessary financial costs.
If you need to quickly build a garage, it is recommended to consider as the main building material Sandwich panel. Multilayer prefabricated designs are easily connected to each other, which makes it possible to build a construction in a short time. The garage boiled from the sandwich panels can be additionally equipped with heating and lighting systems.
Install the panels are possible on any concrete site, without creating a special base.
Choose materials for building a budget garage
At the construction of the garage there is a large amount of funds, therefore, when choosing materials, budget options should be considered in order to save. To make a cheap building, it is recommended to pay attention to the following materials:
Tree. The manufacturer's plant has the opportunity to order ready-made sets of wooden bars according to a predetermined project. It will only be to connect the items that simplifies the installation process.
Slagoblock. The strength of the material is sufficient to build the garage, and the low cost allows you to purchase a sllacobal in large quantities.
Professional flooring. Universal material is easy to use and does not require costs for extra lining.
In order for the built garage to serve for many years and performed all the required functions, it is necessary to carry out a number of preparatory actions before erection. Their list includes the choice and preparation of the place, drawing up drawings and the acquisition of building materials.
We select a place to build
Choosing a suitable place to locate the building, it is necessary to take into account a number of surrounding conditions and your own preferences. To proper placement of the garage, it is recommended to follow the following rules:
The garage should be located at minimal distance from exit from the territory. The number of turns for convenience should be reduced.
To prevent the flooding of groundwater and rain, it is better not to place the construction in the lowland.
In the place of planned construction, engineering communications should not be located, including water pipes, power lines and sewage elements.
On the selected territory you need to provide a sufficient amount of free space for the full opening of the gate and cargo.
Preparing a place under the foundation
Before filling the foundation of the future building, the territory markup is marked. Marking starts with the definition of accurate dimensions of the structure. This takes into account free space in the territory, budget and individual needs. When the dimensions are defined, it is necessary to place a place with the help of reinforcement rods.
If the garage is planned to build a look at the observation pit, then after the markup, the land is digging to the corresponding depth in the center of the plot. The rest of the base is leveling further processing.
Main construction work
At the end of the preparatory actions, a list of basic work is carried out. All stages of construction must be made consistently to prevent errors. At each stage, it is recommended to adhere to the instructions and standard rules for the construction of a durable garage with a long period of operation.
The quality of the construction of the construction directly depends on its service life. The creation of the foundation begins with earthworks and digging of the trench. The standard trench width is 40 cm, the depth is from 60 to 100 cm, depending on the degree of frozen soil in winter. The bottom of the trench is equal, and the walls are processed by a shovel so that the soil is not poured.
On the bottom of the trench, the large-scale bite crushed stone or stones in several rows are stacked. The cement-sand mixture is flooded with each row until the trench is filled. To help the foundation, it is recommended to use high-quality cement, and the sand ratio should not exceed 2: 1. If installing the finished metal design is planned, the entire area should be pouring concrete.
The height and length of the garage walls is individually determined. The thickness of the masonry depends on the expected weather conditions, wind load and temperature differences. The easiest way to masonry material for walls is brick, in which each next row overlaps the seams of the previous one.
First, the angles are laid out, after which ropes are stretched to align the design. The construction level should extinct each row, paying special attention to the start. After the construction of the walls, their covering is performed with thermal insulation material, if additional insulation and protection is required.
Cover the roof
The constructed base and walls are covered with the roof, which is easiest to build from foreign beams. Elements are stacked across a step of about 1 m. Fix the beams can be anchors or other fixing elements. The roof base is overlapped with 4-5 cm with a thickness of 4-5 cm. To eliminate the flow and purge of the roof, the bars should be laid as thick as possible. Top on the bars are stacked layers of rubberoid and thermal insulation.
The final coating is a screed and a rupture or its substitute.
Mount the gate
The garage doors are swollen, lifting, with an automated mechanism and sliding. A suitable variety should be selected with the availability of free space and its own design requirements.
Mounting the gate should be carried out before or during the construction of walls. First, rebar of reinforcement is welded to the portable frame to create a stronger clutch with walls. During the construction of walls, the reinforcement is closed in the seams. The gate is mounted exceptionally vertically. After leveling the design, the gates are fixed using wood separations.
The purpose of the interior decoration is the additional protection of the walls of the garage from frost and giving decorative properties . To insulate the built garage from the inside, a false partition is built along the perimeter of the walls, into which the thermal insulation material is laid. From above, the material is treated with paint or varnish.
If the construction is used by a material that is not amenable to staining, it can be additionally seen from the inside with thin sheets of plywood. Optionally, you can equip the workspace in the garage - place workbench, drawers and shelves for tools. Performing an internal finish, it is necessary to install a fire corner consisting of a fire extinguisher, a drawer with sand and other elements.
Slagoblock - relatively inexpensive material with excellent operational properties. If you wish, you can build a wonderful garage without attracting third-party workers. How? Now let's tell!
Independent construction of a garage from a slagoblock begins with the fulfillment of a number of important preparatory activities. Follow the sequence.
Choosing a place
First, choose the appropriate place to build our auto industry. Conveniently when the garage is located next to the house - in bad weather, you don't have to mock in the rain and wade through the snow drifts.
It is better that the garage is located at a minimum distance from the departure from the site. The number of turns should be minimal. It is not recommended to build a garage from a slag block in a lowline, because It threatens with atmospheric and groundwater.
Be sure to make sure that there are no communications lines in the place of scheduled construction, such as:
Sewer and heating pipes.
When the listed communications listed in the future, the presence of a garage will complicate their repair.
Make sure that when the garage is built at the selected place, a sufficient number of space will remain to open the gate. We can use free space for parking machines for the time of washing and other works.
Marking of the construction site
Choosing a suitable place to build a garage from slag blocks, proceed to the placement of the site. At this stage you will need a small set of auxiliary instruments, namely:
reinforcement rods or other similar devices;
hammer for clogging rods;
dense thread for stretching between spicks;
Roulette for measurements.
Before proceeding with marking work, you need to accurately determine the dimensions of the future structure. At this moment, focus on the following factors:
Available free space on the plot;
Individual preferences and needs.
If the garage from the slag block will be used as a place for storing a standard size car, you quite have a structure with dimensions of 6x4 m and a height of 2.5-3 m.
The six-meter length is due to the dimensions of the car (on average 4-5 m) with a half-meter margin for a unimpeded passage. The width of the machine is an average of 200-250 cm. Approximately 70 cm must be left for passage, installation of racks and storage of various types of materials used in the garage.
If you wish, you can adjust the size of the construction at your discretion. There are no strict limitations and standard dimensions against garages from the slag block.
Calculation of slagoblok.
By choosing a place for construction and determining the optimal dimensions of the garage, proceed to the calculation of materials. Take the stage of work with maximum responsibility. Due to errors at the settlement stage, you may simply do not have enough materials or you will spend money for unnecessary blocks.
The calculation will be considered on the example of a garage with dimensions of 6x4 m and a height of 250 cm. The masonry is performed according to the most common method - half of the block. Dimensions of the gate - 300x230 cm.
The dimensions of one block are standardized - 39x19x18.8 cm. Based on this, 13.6 blocks will go on 1. m2. All the construction you lay out of 586 elements. Usually about 5-10% of the material is added "to supply". If the design provides additional doors and window openings, consider it when calculating.
You will also need to buy a brown stone to arrange the base, several metal beams or wood (in the case of the garage of the specified dimensions there will be enough five 430-centimeter beams).
Do not forget to buy a concrete for filling the foundation or components (cement, sand and crushed stone) for its independent preparation.
You will also need material for finishing roofing. When choosing it, focus on your preferences.
Buy concrete or cook yourself. Standard proportions:
part of cement;
three pieces of sand;
4-5 parts of rubble.
Building Block Prices
Phased Garage Construction Guide
We proceed to independent construction of the garage from the slagoblock.
First stage - foundation
We start with the foundation arrangement. The building from the slagoblock will be relatively low weight. Full-breeding belt base is enough.
ROOM trench in accordance with the markup. Ideally, the design depth should exceed the level of soil freezing. Most often plunged by 60-80, and sometimes 100 cm. At the same stage, we prepare the recesses for the cellar and the observation pit, if their presence is provided by the project.
We attach a polyethylene film or rubberoid for waterproofing to the walls of the pit.
I fall asleep the bottom of the trench with a 20-30-centimeter layer of a mixture of rubbank and gravel with a thorough subsequent murdration.
We set the formwork with the calculation so that the height of the finished concrete structure is approximately 100 mm exceeded the soil level.
We give a concrete mix to frozen. According to the Regulations, concrete is gaining strength for 28 days. On top of the frozen ribbons, we lay the runneroid in two layers for waterproofing.
Second Stage - Walls
The height and length of the walls are determined individually. Laying blocks is done like bricks. The most popular methods are as follows:
half of the stone;
in one and a half stone;
in two stones.
The thickness of the masonry directly affects the stability of the finished walls to the wind loads, the temperature differences, etc.
Most often, as noted, the builders use the "brick" method of masonry, in which the next laid row overlaps the seams of the underlying. First, lay out the angles, then stretch the rope between them for the smoothness of the masonry and continue the work.
In the process of arrangement of walls, adhere to the following important rules:
In the top of the walls, leave the nest to install the overlap beams. Recommended dimensions - 200x200x150 mm. Clauses then be able to lay or blend. The optimal step of placement of the sockets is 100 cm.
Third Stage - Roof
The roof base is made from foreign beams - this is the most optimal option. We select the length of the elements so that it is 250 mm higher than the width of the construction.
The beams are laying across with a step of about 1 m. Fresh beams with a suitable way, for example, with the help of anchors.
After that, we sew the base with bars with a thickness of 4 cm. We put the timber as thick as possible. On top of BRUSEV put the ruberoid, insulation (minvatu, slag or clay), fill 2 cm screed and complete the "pie" aquaizole, a scheduling or other suitable material. If you wish, you can choose another finish coating at your discretion.
Fourth stage - Paul
Paul do at the level with the basement. Strengthening the screed with a thickness of at least 100 mm. We pre-clean the surface from the garbage, align it and, if necessary, we fall asleep with the bottom of the sand or small gravel.
We make a screed from the M200 brand concrete. The material to the clock is continuous, slowly, in several layers. Let the concrete grab and rub the surface.
So that it was convenient to travel to the garage, we draw the ramp in the front of the structure. Be sure to make a 50-70-centimeter break throughout the perimeter of the building. It will ensure timely leading water from the base.
Prices for various types of screeds and bulk floors
Screeds and bulk floors
Install the gate. The specific design option is chosen at your discretion, we buy or make it yourself and install according to the instructions, relevant for the selected system.
Move the electricity in an affordable way ("by air" or "underground"). Install the outlets and lighting in the right places.
We proceed to the outer and interior decoration. There are no rigorous restrictions and specific recommendations in this regard. The walls can be lost to the cement mixture, separated by plaster or whitewash, lifting siding, clapboard or other similar material.
It is strongly recommended to warm the garage. Most often, thermal insulation from minvati or foam plastic is most common. Waterproofing Create from polyethylene film.
Interior arrangement for you. Desk, racks, shelves - orient to their preferences and needs. Be sure to place fire corner from the fire extinguisher, the box with sand, blades and buckets.
Finally, enter the necessary furniture and accessories to the garage.
Find out what options for self-making bourgearies in the garage, from our new article.
Video - Build a garage with your own hands
In some areas, the garage appears before home. You can spend the night in the tent yourself, and the car is to put under the roof. Therefore, the question of how to build a garage with your own hands is not idle. We start with the choice of place.
Choosing a place
The choice of place for the garage is not an easy task. I really want to be convenient to use them, but at the same time that the construction does not spoil the appearance of the site. Immediately it is necessary to decide it separately or attached to home or another building on the site.
Standing separately. This option is chosen if the house has already been built and / or the shape of the site is such that access roads take too much space. In this case, it makes sense to bring the construction closer to the entrance gate, or to make the garage gate to open right outside.
Which are part of the construction. It can be a house or hosbler, and the garage itself can be built together with the building, or to adoperate later. Good in the event that the house is built close to the border of the site. Attractive with the fact that there is no need to think about how to pull it and pull additional communications.
With independent construction, the garage is most often put separately, since the extension to the existing home requires serious measures to strengthen the foundation, and this is accurately expensive. Cheaper will build separately. Only when choosing a place should be borne in mind that the distance to the neighboring site should be at least 1 m, and the entrance at a distance of at least 10 meters from the neighbor's windows. Also normal is normalized to the nearest residential building. It should be more than 9 meters if a house of non-combustible material and 15 meters, if the house is fire-haired.
Dimensions and designs
First you need to decide for what purposes the garage will be used. If this is only a parking place, the dimensions can be made back - to the dimensions of the machine add to the length in length and width. This is enough for the place of parking. If repair works will also be held in the garage, the lift or observation pit will be needed, a bunch of equipment and spare parts, then the sizes should be greater. It is advisable to leave at least a meter on the sides and as much ahead. Rear is still enough half-meter. If the garage is used as a workshop or as a club, dimensions can be even more. Restrictions only in existing areas and budget for construction.
With pit or without
The most important thing is to determine the pit or not. It depends on how and what the foundation will do. You can make a basement under the garage, and the pit will be an "entrance" or only part of a busy space. An attractive option, but expensive and requiring large volumes of earthworks.
How to make a viewing pit in the garage look here.
The second option is more economical: only a hole of a depth of 1.8-2 meters and a width of about 1 meter. The width is optimal, but the height depends on the growth and it is better to choose this option individually: the depth must be 15-20 cm more than your height. Length of the pit is about 2 m. This is enough to inspect any passenger car.
It is even easier to implement the floor in the garage without a pit. Then the monolithic plate is simply poured without any difficulties.
Foundation for garage
The foundation for the garage without a pit can be any, even a tape, even pile-rustling. Another question is that the floor will still have to fill. And if so, it is easier to make a monolithic reinforced plate immediately and not to do the foundation first, and then the floor.
Ribbon - monolithic and precast
If you decide to make a ribbon foundation, and the soils are powdered and the groundwater level is high, you need to make it below the depth of the soil. In the middle strip it is about 1.7-1.9 meters. The trench is digging on this depth, they put a formwork (the tape width is not less than the thickness of the walls). The framework of reinforcement is placed in it and all this is poured concrete. After the concrete reaches 50% of the strength, the formwork is removed and you can proceed to the pouring of the floor in the garage.
In the case of sand and lack of close groundwater for garages, a prefabricated ribbon foundation or a finely brewed belt (tape height of about 40-50 cm). The national foundation is built from finished blocks. Connect blocks using a solution, and the rows are reinforced by laying the rods with a diameter of 10-14 mm (depends on the soils, the material of the walls and the storeinations of the garage). But such foundations normally cost only on soils, not inclined to beanted: sands and squeeces, and with a low level of groundwater.
Another option is to make a ribbon in the level with the ground and overlap it with reinforced concrete plates. This option is also good on sandy soils.
More about belt foundations and their types can be read here.
Pile or pile
Economical foundation that for some reason is rarely used under garages. The pile in pure form under the garage is not very suitable - the floor turns out to be raised above the ground, but if you make a check in, you can use it. He and the pile-tall-string-hard framework - an excellent option for bunching soils (clay, loams with a high level of groundwater).
In the manufacture of Schwayn-Screwdriver around the perimeter, the shallow pit in the form of a ribbon is digging (about 40-50 cm deep). In it, with a step of 1.5-2 meters, the wells are dried below the depth of the soil freezing, the formwork (plastic pipe or rolled up rolled rubberoid is inserted into them. Inside the formwork put three or four rods of fittings with a release of 70 cm and poured concrete. After they put a formwork on the tape and knit the reinforcement frame for the tape, tying it with the release of piles fittings. And it is also poured with concrete.
You can read more about the pile-roster foundations here and in this article describes the piles of tees.
For any type of soil, a monolithic reinforced concrete plate is suitable. In the perimeter, it is done more than the size of the garage at least 30 cm. The ground is removed, the digging of the depth of 40-45 cm. Line the bottom, pour the gravel layer. Its thickness of about 20-25 cm. Gravel is well trambed using vibrating plates.
On the perimeter, they put a formwork, an immaturity is placed on a rammed submetage with a step of 15-20 cm (along and across, getting a cell). Usually 10-14 mm are used in diameter, two reinforcement tiers, the distance between which is about 20 cm. All this is poured by concrete Mark M 250 - M 300.
What to do walls
A bowl of all the walls in the garage are made from building blocks. It can be a cellular concrete (foam block and gasoblock), and maybe with a flagging place or clamzite. They are good because the warm and subsequent heating of the garage of the problem does not occur: a sufficiently small stove in order to heat the air to normal temperatures. True, with such a choice you need an outdoor finish. It, as a rule, make the same as on the house or as much as possible.
The second popular technology of building the walls of the garage - frame. The frame is made from a metal profile pipe or impregnated with antipirens (decreasing flawed additives) of a wooden bar. The sheathing can be any - from sheet metal to siding (on metal), lining, timing of timber, plywood (moisture resistant) or OSB. Yes, some materials are combustible and you will not call them reliable, but if you need a cheap garage, for example, for giving, and only as a temporary parking, then why not.
Read about the frame construction from the wood here, and in this article describes metal framework technologies.
Types of roof
It's easier and more efficient to make a flat roof with a slope of several degrees. For the middle strip, the minimum bias is 8 °, but it is better at least 10-12 ° - the snow is better.
In the case of a separate garage, the front wall is higher and all the precipitate flows / creep back. It is necessary to keep in mind and do not put any items there, do not place the construction. If the garage is attached to the wall of the existing structure, the bias are taken away from the house.
Minus one-piece roof for the garage - no attic. Pros is a simple device and low cost. Another positive point concerns improvements: then the attic floor can be built above the garage.
A row roof is more complicated in the implementation: the assembly of the rafter system and the roofing material is greater. But - there is a attic and the appearance of more "Civic". It is often possible to see the attic floor above the garage. The room can be used as a guest house. The costs of arrangement of attic, of course, more than on the construction of a conventional two-sheet roof, but also additionally, a decent square is obtained.
The manufacture of a two-tie roof is described here (photo report), read the device on the devices of the attic roof here.
Gate for the garage can be swollen, sliding, lifting. Swing - the simplest and well acquaintances. If you wish, you can automate them (as read here).
Retractable gate can be done if the departure from the garage is in one plane with the fence, and next to the free section of the wall, 1.5 meters longer than the width of the gate. What they are good - the fact that in winter it is easier to dig.
The gate with the lifting mechanism is perhaps the most comfortable, but also the most expensive. In the simplest variant, you can put a roller shutter. If you take non-automatic, they are unlikely to be too expensive. Rollette strips are made of metal thoroughly, the color may be any.
If you want automation, pneumatic lifts that raise the entire sash. In the case, immediately need to develop the doorway and the design of the garage, taking into account the work of such a mechanism. Sectional models are more comfortable in this sense. In the folded state, they occupy less space. But all of them are decent, although certainly comfortable.
The type of trimming of the garage walls is largely depends on the material of the walls. If these are building blocks, the walls are most often plastered. Some do not really pay attention to the attention and leave as it is. But in the case of some blocks, they are better to plaster (non-autoclave cellular concrete, for example, or crust with limestone) to protect against high humidity.
Frame garages often inside plywood. If the garage has permanent heating, you can use anyone if they hang from the case to occasion, or at all at all - then you need moisture-proof. You can make a lining with any sheet material - GLC, for example.
You can read more about the framework of construction here.
Heating and Garage Heating
If you plan to use the garage all year round, it is necessary or the walls to immediately make warm (from blocks with low thermal conductivity) or warming up the framework-built technology. Materials for insulation Standards: mineral wool, polystyrene (extruded or conventional foam). There is another embodiment of a non-combustible insulation, which, in the case of a garage, is simply a great option - a small density foam concrete. It can be laid between the frame racks. Non-flamm, inexpensive, keeps warm well. It is bad just that you will not hang anything on it, but there is a frame of a frame, here they can be attached to them.
There are two types of heating in the garage: permanent and periodic. Permanent can be separate or part of the heating of the house. If you do separately, this is the same house system, only in a smaller volume. It turns out expensive and difficult: a separate boiler, which is also necessary to serve and control.
One option to organize heating in the garage is to reach the branch of the house. But here it is also not easy: a pipeline requiring good insulation, a large volume of land for its laying, and, it is desirable not just to the ground, but in the sewer.
Periodic heating - bourgeoque stoves and modifications. They can be drowned by firewood, every flammable trash, which is usually enough. But the most attractive thought looks like a stove on working out - fuel around full, and the task (or almost). The designs are different, they are described with the article "Oven on the exhaust oil with their own hands."
This type of heating is easiest to organize the easiest: put the stove and rust, but comfort less. Firstly, warm mainly near the stove, and secondly, you come in a cold garage and still melt until it starts to warm up ...
Drawings and schemes
Photo reports from construction
Often it is difficult to understand the essence of technological processes according to the verbal description, but drawings or photos help to put everything in places. More questions arises about frame garages. They are obtained the cheapest and are built quickly. Several examples are given below.
Frame garage from wood
The garage was built 4 * 6.5 m, with a gazebo of 4 * 2 m. The lumber was brought up, impregnated with antiseptic and folded into the ventilated stacks - dry.
The foundation is made column. The manual brown was made of wells with a depth of 150 cm, diameter 35 cm. The sleeves from the runneroid were put in them, three rods of plastic reinforcement are inserted, filled with concrete.
Two weeks later, when the concrete is almost ready, they began to put the walls. The first collected the bottom strapping. Used ram 150 * 100 mm. The strapping was installed on three sides, the fourth remained open - there will be an entry.
The bunch of plastic reinforcement turned out to be problematic. Not a particularly successful idea: drilled holes for it drilled, and how to fix it - it is not clear. Anchors fastened to concrete (two on the pillar), and the holes with the reinforcement were poured with epoxy. They will help or not unclear, but we hope to somehow keep it.
Next over each column (step 1.5 meters) put the racks. They must be put strictly up, without deviations, otherwise the design will be unsustainable - driving loads will appear. Started with corners. One put out, recorded by temporary bodies, then knocked, moved to the next. At the exhibited angles, the rest, not forgetting to check the verticality (plumb, as the level gives an error). Bashed on nails, reinforced with metal mounting plates.
In order for the free ends of the lower strapping, they were brought together temporarily, the board.
After installing all the racks at the bottom, lagows were attached. They gave rigidity, and it is necessary, since we will climb up and mount the upper strapping.
Next collected intermediate racks and bodies. Again for greater rigidity.
When all the beams are installed and assembled, we start collecting the solo system. The roof is decided to make a moon, and it is temporary. Subsequently, the garage will be tortured to the house (this is the first building on the plot).
Having collected the right number of farms installed on the upper strapping. Fixed pieces of boards to racks on both sides, then scored with nails, reinforced with corners on self-drawing.
The rafters should also be put precisely up, otherwise the roof will lead the roof. Because it should be checked as correctly: before you score, and after ....
After all are installed and secured, the crate has been installed. A 40 * 150 mm board went on it, stacked with a gap 40 cm.
The crucible was impatible professional flooring.
Began to make a zone mounting the gate. Installed beam at the top and sides.
The gate will be lifting-swivels. Under them inside the framework is boiled, through which they will drip off. From the profile pipe 25 * 50 mm, the gate frame is boiled in size of the opening (with a small gap).
Next, they brought the CSP, the framework of the frame began. Sheets cut a grinder with a diamond disk. It cuts well, but a lot of dust.
Bashed sheets needed with a gap of about 10 mm. For humidity and temperature expansion.
There is still a lot of work, but mostly everything is ready. The crushed stone was poured inside until the floor was filled, but the car can already be put as drinking tea in the gazebo))
Garage do it yourself on a tape foundation
The garage for two cars (separate boxes) is unheard. Built on sandy soil with low groundwater. Therefore, the foundation is finely brewed. They dug around the perimeter trench, put the formwork, tied the reinforcement frame. Everything is as usual. Bled concrete.
Inside the ribbon was made over the excess ground, leveled the pit. The bottom was shown geotextiles and floated with sand. His shed and tumped (vibrating).
From above, a polyethylene film was laid (for waterproofing), laid the metal grid and poured with concrete M300.
The height of the screed is 10 cm. Left for 2 weeks to grab. Then began to put the framework. At the framework of the frame itself and the rafter system, the boards 50 * 150 mm, the struts and drives are made of 100 * 25 mm.
In the corners, additional boards are delivered - for amplification. Also reinforced racks in places of fitting of doors and windows. Installation step! Walks "- the dimensions are small, and it is necessary to put the door block, then put the window. The rest divided as it turns out, but no more than 60 cm did.
Immediately assembled and the rafter system. Since the beams were held in the middle, and relied the rafter legs on them. They were put on a distance of about 50 cm. To enhance in places of attachment, assembly metallic plates and corners are used. They were sitting on the self-tapping screw, combined the frame elements with a long nail.
From above on the frame packed windproof membrane. On it - a doomlet of an inch board, the shap shave is about 50 cm.
After stuffing the membrane and the crates began the installation of the outdoor sheatting of the garage. This is metal profile on walls and ondulin on the roof. No difficulties. Cut in size, attach to the screws.
Disseminating the membrane to the roof (starting from below, sick joints) and killing the crate, mount ondulin. His put it should be from below, moving up.
Longer have to mess with the switches of the soles. They were stirred by perforated siding (residues from the construction of the house). The wind board is installed from dry wood 145 * 20 mm, painted in white.
The wooden windows are installed, painted white and cheap Chinese door, which after will be replaced and delivered to the barn. The corners are trimmed with a wooden board 145 * 20 mm, painted into the tone of the roofing material.
An entry was prepared: on the one hand, an extended tape was filled with the fill with the foundation (height difference). On the other hand, they poured the board. Fucking asleep, tamped. Check out ready.
Recently installed rollers. At first, the rotary doors were planned, but the price of them became a lot of comparison, because a cheaper option was installed.
As an Education Engineer, I clearly decided that I would do everything myself, the project of the future garage was built on the computer. I discouraged me a lot then it was 25 years old and I thought my father was young ambitions, but as he became mistaken) I spent the whole salary on materials. And looked at the truly construction site. I was even a joke to warm up the sites and office chairs.
What to start.
A neighbor on the tractor helped out, the son for the first time in the tractor ride, where else modern children in the city will be happy)
The garage begins with the basement! As the garage without observation pit and the basement ... This is not a garage ...
A good Soviet brick was taken on the walls of the basement that was at times tightly new! And for a penny got through acquaintances. With the test, they laid out a pit and she was descending to the basement. The threshings flooded from concrete. When the trench was dugged under the bayonet under the foundation of the tape. In the formwork flooded 40x30 ribbon around the perimeter of 8.4 * 4.2. It is a pity, but I forgot the photo then to do. The block from the house went on the walls Aerobel Block a good big I one for 2 days laid out all the walls. Then threesome poured a jumper for the gate. On the doors and windows they decided the corner.
After of course, they put a rafter and squeeze the electrician.
All stained brought a sensor approximation into the street. Connected street lights from the garage that planned to put this summer (and put)
For entry into the garage as the foundation, old Soviet stoves were taken, then they cut off the fence and overlapped another reinforced concrete
Honestly I will say the only thing that I do not know how to do myself and it just infuriates me - this is a plaster! I tried when I built at home one wall passed and with mats left the workshops. They were hired familiar with Baku) they were all twisted and twitched. Helped me to fill the floors in the garage. The father-in-law worked as a father, too, could not interfere with pouring concrete this cat cargo, it was more profitable for me to earn money from a computer and hire workers, the more plans were to 31m to finish everything.
I ordered the gate of 3 meter put myself and automation, for which 5000 is missing there.
cut off the fence strengthened it extras and jumpers
Works were afraid, the body of the young wanted to do more and stretch the working day. With the father decided to put a lantern on the pillar. The lantern itself was bought and the light sensor I connected all this, the bracket with it was also welded
Father 5th discharge milling machine! Thank you for him a lot of tool adjusted, I probably in him, I have a constantly to invent something). A good expensive tool is a high-quality fast job, and time money (and there is always no money or there is no money)
Drink kvass, on construction dry law
And I thought myself to climb to cheat to the general line)) there ordinary crabs puncture do not hit the current). But the father did not (((An electrician was told by the local challenge, which had to be done, we didn't even have cats to climb. With a lantern, work went fast) while you were plastered guys, I did the yard 3 Chinese sand and 1 rubble. At 30cm The whole courtyard raised. Each layer of vibrating placed. After the paving a paving 140 squares was laid, I laid out 30-40kv, 2 My Savedness did it faster with their experience more. Asked for a job Passing by the Uzbek Brigade Seeing like I am alone, she was taiga Little, and weighs more bricks at times. Put the lanterns in the courtyard welded friends on the forging who did the site). Drainages and electricians were planned in advance and laid under the base.
While finished the courtyard came time to bind the garage from the street. I thought for a long time than and how nevertheless decorative plaster won the price of speed and sight. Again the guys with Baku saved cheap and quickly.
Extrusion was used as a beacon formwork for decorative plaster, first did the type of cement stone, the remaining cavities made of bags ready
Photos in the construction and experience in this area over the years have received a lot, sorry the post is limited to the full files) I always and everyone said: every man must build his home and his garage and pride for the work done and praise close to the dashing compensate all those What will meet on this path (broken hands, legs, cuts, bruises are all fine for construction))). I even fell with the block from the second floor and was not there anyone near, the house was alone in a clean field, but I got up shaken and built on I did it not only for myself, but also for the closest.
Fountain wife stones laid out, my as usual engineering, stones, bring water and lighting))) (Fountain with
The son at this time was 5 years old daughter here I had to be made a year old and I really tried to finish the garage and the yard to her holiday, it was even sold the car to buy a blocking and I managed! May 31, daughter turned year and garage was ready! The yard was removed the lanterns burned, and the flowers were blooming.
Do not be afraid to do everything yourself, nothing is not possible, put goals and reaching them change the course for new ones, because years will be held and looking back even now 5 years later I understand how much done and how much you can do good luck to everyone and take care of your loved ones!
The loss of cars of a row of construction and DR daughter was compensated last year by buying a new, on credit)).
Now I have been kicking myself every year to May 31 and do something next for the family)))
We subscribe to my quirk there, too, a lot of interesting things will be your own hands!