Binding of books with your own hands: master class and step-by-step instruction with photos and videos
Posted On 18.03.2021
Binding of books with your own hands: Step-by-step instructions for beginners
Independent manufacture of books, albums and notebooks in a hardcover is not the most common occupation. However, the ability to make a bookcover can be useful, for example, if you want to save and place a printed book. We suggest try making classic books of books quickly and simply do it yourself according to the step-by-step instructions below.
Learning to make high-quality books of books with your own hands in the master class
Required materials and tools:
Two small smooth boards;
Thin mill for working on metal;
Durable white threads;
high density cardboard (you can use a thin cardboard glued in 2-3 layers);
Roller for a bookpore (instead you can use braid);
Color dense paper for the design of the cover;
brush for glue;
Books are sewn and glued. An independent firmware of the book is a very time-consuming occupation for fulfilling at home. Therefore, we offer the master class on the manufacture of binding for a glued book.
Print the book on the printer that we plan to intertwine. Align the resulting paper foot along the edge, carefully tapping it with ends about the flat surface of the table. It is necessary to approach the process with maximum responsibility, since the appearance of the future book will depend on it.
The design of the root.
Carefully put a stack of paper on the table with a root to myself so that the edge of the stacks slightly beyond the borders of the table top, and put enough heavy cargo on top. With the help of a brush to the surface, dense PVA glue and leave to dry for a couple of minutes. Then we remove the load and move the stack of sheets a little further from the edge of the table. From above very gently put the board and clamp the resulting design with clamps.
After 3-4 hours, we remove the clamps and move the stack of sheets together with the board in such a way that they go beyond the surface of the table about 2-3 mm. With the help of a pencil, we make transverse markers on the end of the stacks of sheets with the same intervals (in our case 2 cm). Then, according to the marks obtained using a metal pink, we make cuts depth of about 1 mm. It is necessary to ensure that they are strictly perpendicular to sheets of paper.
We prepare gauze and special rollers for the root. We determine the gauze so that its length is about 1 cm less than the root length, and the width is about 4 cm more (2 cm on each side). In the same way, we cut two rollers, but their width must accurately match the width of the root. The edges of the rollers neatly lubricate glue.
Similarly, we make a blank of a strip of paper that will be stuck on the root. Its width must be equal to the width of the root, and the length is 7-8 mm less.
The root of the book is abundantly lubricating PVA so that the glue fell into each made propyl. Insert the thread moistened with glue glue so that their ends are sticking to 2-3 cm on each side. Again, lubricate the spine with threads with glue and on top fix the gauze blank, then the rollers and the last line the paper strip, the maximum tightly pressing each layer with your fingers. The resulting design is left to dry by 8-12 hours.
After drying the glue, we remove the clamps, cut the extra parts of the ropes.
Next, proceed to the manufacture of beads. We will do them from thick paper type Watman (white or color). We make blanks in the size of the future book. The outer edge of the moon must be short enough to be comfortable to glue it.
Lubricate the strip of the strip in the fold (approximately 3-4 mm) and glue the forboat on the sheet block. Then we turn the blank of the book and in the same way to glue another forcedation. We put the design under the press for a while.
We cut three details from the cardboard: the root and two crusts. Corks should be 8 mm longer than the glued book blank, and in width are equal to it. The root must be in height equal to crusts, and in width - the thickness of the block.
Then choose the paper suitable on the color and the shafts of the workpiece as follows:
The width of one detail is equal to the width of the root + 8 mm on both sides;
The width of other two parts is equal to the width of the crusts + 2-3 cm on both sides.
We glue the resulting design and cut the corners diagonally. We wist the edge of the paper, bend and glue them to the cardboard, especially carefully pressing the corner of the cover.
To make the cover, you can use a ready-made dust cover, apply an inscription using a stencil or print and paste paper with the necessary information at your discretion. It is widely used in the design of book covers such a technology as scrapbooking: decoration of products with cut or chopped decor elements, paper with unusual ornaments and openwork edges.
Glue the internal unit and cover. We pre-try both details and only after that begin to glue. An error admitted at this stage will be fixed almost impossible.
Lubricate one edge of gauze with glue and press to the surface of the moon. Then Majm PVA is the entire forzatc with gauze. I turn over the book with an empty mowing down and mount the atmosphere to the cover, starting with its edges. Lubricate the gauze glue on the upper side and glue to the muddle, then with the smear of the second boat and glue it in the same way. In order for the surplus of the adhesive not staining the book, it should be laid by unnecessary paper larger. When gluing each workpiece must be monitored so that air bubbles and folds are not formed.
Binding books ready! After the manufacture, it is advisable to put a book for the night under the press.
Much simplifies the process of the manufacture of binding, if the gluing of parts occurs with the help of a thermal oil. In this case, you need to purchase a special typewriter for the thermoclast and actually the thermocons. All outproed workpieces (cover, the root of the book and the mousets) together with the printed paper unit are inserted into the machine and crimped with it. The cover is then glued manually. However, if you do not plan to constantly work with book products, buying a machine will not be appropriate.
Video on the topic
For those who mastered the classic binding of books in a step-by-step lesson with their own hands and wants to continue working with books, the following videos are offered with detailed binding lessons.
Why bind the book? How will this master class be useful? The answer is quite simple. Maybe the cover of your old, but the hot-beloved book broke or does not look so attractive as after the purchase. Or, perhaps, you printed it from the Internet. After all, it would be nicer to store the printed edition not as a stack of sheets, but in intertwined form. Or you wrote your novel, a collection of poems, and the typography requested a couple of copies too high. This is where our interesting teacher master class will need, how to overwhelm the book at home.
Binding book with your own hands
Of course, to achieve such a quality, as in a professional typography, will not work, so if you need to overwhelm the book for sale, it is better to seek help to professionals. If for home use or as a gift, then our master class, how to twist the book itself, this is what you need. Who does not like work performed by their own hands - it increases the value of the gift. And also such a handmade can serve as a new interesting home decor.
By issuing a book, you can give the will of your fantasy, play with the colors of the cover, the main material, decorate to your liking. In addition, if you are interested in how to cross the old book at home, then our master class is a great way to restore favorite literature.
Hardcover editions with their own hands - very interesting, affordable and not too complex hobby, which by the Master with any experience. Moreover, the homemade hardcover of books is not an expensive occupation. It does not require any complex equipment, no expensive tools, no large space for work.
Before you begin to get acquainted with the master class, how to twist the book at home, let's talk about what materials and tools will be useful to us.
First of all, PVA glue will need for binding, it perfectly connects paper, and tissue, and fat cardboard. And also for stitching, white threads will be required, fine woolen or brand iris are perfect. If there are no such - take a thin white rope.
Dense gauze or cotton fabric segment to create a dense strong root.
Cardboard of any color to strengthen the cover. Choose very tight material so that it is barely bent. It is difficult to purchase this, but it can be replaced. To do this, glue 2-3 sheets of cardboard together.
To enclose the cover, you can use both colored paper and fabric: choose or depending on the design of the book. You can still print an image on not too tight paper.
Cappaling for the root is a small climber roller. To understand what we are talking about, look at the root of the usual book in solid binding. You can buy such in stores for needlework or on the Internet. You can replace the material on a dense canva. In general, the captal is a decorative detail that covers the ugly root and inside of the book, so you can do without it.
And of course, before at home, overwhelm the book, you need to prepare the necessary tools. They are a bit, but they will definitely use the work in the process.
For such purposes, you will need:
paper knife (stationery);
Brushes for glue, tightly stuffed with a pile.
Prepare all materials and tools for work, you can start acquaintance with the way how to overwhelm the book itself.
Before starting work
Before crossing the book in a hardcover, take the remnants of the material that will not be sorry for failure. After reading the master class, try to make your first binding - the draft version, so as not to spoil the good material and the printed book.
To understand the principle of assembling a book in solid binding, we strongly recommend carefully inspecting printed products from the store. If there is a book that is not sorry to throw out, then disassemble it, inspect the root, cover, swell the density to have the idea that we need to do with the finished printout.
Preparation of a book or work with sheets
You can print a book any size that is optimal is the format A5. Printing a stack (or perhaps you want to renovate the old edition), it must be aligned. To do this, tapping about the board or desktop from all sides, collect all the sheets in a flat stack. Before that, do not forget to carefully view them so that they are smooth, beautiful and completely pricked.
When the edges, in your opinion, are smooth, very carefully put a stack on the board so that the future root spoke a little beyond its limits to several millimeters. So more convenient to apply glue. And also gently put a stack of a second board upstairs - the press. Litously lubricate the protruding edge of the book with glue, you can in several layers. Give it to dry, enough for 2-3 minutes, but it is better to wait 5-7.
There is another way how to create a solid and strong root. This method is most often used in printing houses. It is called "Notebook". True, in this case you will have to do a little more work. Every notebook (a stack of 6 sheets) will have to be moved manually or on a high-quality machine for sewing.
In addition, that the book does not look square, it is necessary to mount the edges, which is almost impossible at home at home.
When the adhesive will dry, the pack can be moved. But still carefully remove the top board and slowly slide the root back to the table. Tighten the future book between the boards by two clamps. Leave for several hours. Ideally, it takes 12 hours to dry it with glue, but you can continue to work after 3-4.
Press the book with clamps without boards can not, otherwise traces will remain.
The initial gluing of sheets is necessary so that the pack is stronger to keep, it has not shifted and it was more convenient to work with it. This is an important stage of the master class, as at home to overwhelm the book.
Creation of root
We will proceed to the second stage of the master class, as you turn over the book with your own hands. Clamps after drying remove. Book again slide on the edge of the table for 3 centimeters. Having covered the product with a clamp, make a markup with a pencil on every 2 cm. At the marks, make even 1 mm depth. They should be smooth and perpendicular to the root.
Insert a white rope into the cuts, it must be very tightly there. This is an equally important stage in creating a root, because the threads will help strengthen the book and will not allow him to break or fall apart. Mix the root along with the thread of the PVA glue, follow the steering into the rods.
While it dries, prepare the material. The segment of gauze should be 1 cm less root, but the width is equal, and add 2 cm on both sides. Prepare Captal Cut.
In addition, the root will need a small segment of paper, the size of which is 7-8 mm less than its length.
Melt the edge of the book block of the book block with glue, also feed them gauze and covertals. Extra edges of the cloth do not stick to the sides of the book, they must hang freely. Attach gauze to the root, top and bottom for the segment of the kattle, and up the paper cut. Press it tightly and gauze, and a piece of paper, well adding to a stack. Leave the product to dry overnight.
The next stage of the master class, how to overtake the book in a hardcover, is the creation of the solid binding.
Take several sheets of thick paper, choose optionally white, you can use any color. Filtrate the mousets in half. If your format is A5, and Watman A4, then his edges will have to fill a little so that they are no more book.
Having folded the atmosphere, try it on it to the book, and then wrapped with a strip of the bend (4 mm), stick to the block. Turn the book, stick the second boat and put under the press to dry half an hour.
At this time, you can make the creation of the cover.
To start, cut the cardboard. The hardcover consists of three parts. Measure the size of the block, and then mark them on the sheets of cardboard. Two identical crusts should be 8 cm longer than your sheet block, and in width are equal. The root must be equal to the length of the crust, and in the width of the thickness of the block.
Next, select the appropriate color paper and reveal it. In height, it should be outside the crusts of 2-3 cm on each side. On its reverse side, make such a markup, starting from the middle: the size of the cardboard root, crusts on both sides, indents 8 mm on each side and 2-3 cm to the edge.
Then glue the cardboard and paper. Get on the marking of the root and two crusts.
Having retreated 3-4 mm from the corner of the cardboard, diagonally cut off the corners of the paper. Protecting edges on the sides of the future cover, wake glue and get on the cardboard.
Put the press on the cover and leave for 1 hour.
After that, go to work on the cover of the cover. You can sign the book manually by drawing a drawing or gluing a printout, sticker. Here is the case of taste.
All that we have left is to connect the unit and the cover. Attach the book to the cover, check that it is not inverted. Then wake the root glue and press it to the block. Lubricate glue and hanging a few centimeters of gauze. Get it to the cardboard - the book is crust. Applying, well press the details to each other. Then join the side of the floor of the book to the cardboard, thereby closing and gauze, and side segments of paper.
Close the book, in the root, tighten or the corner of the line to give it sharpness.
Put the book for the night under the press, and in the morning it will be ready.
Our master class, as at home to overwhelm the book, completed. Having spent a few days, you can arrange any collection of your own or printed book, without spending a significant amount in the printing house. We hope you will be useful to know how to overwhelm the book, because in this method you can create many other useful things, such as albums, sketchbooks or notebooks.
For work you have to read a lot and I really do not like to read from the computer. I like to keep the book in my hands.
Educational literature is not always available for purchase. Therefore, sometimes I make myself books myself. In this article, I will statenly show all the important moments of the manufacture of a book that will not only be convenient to read but for a very long time to store.
So choose the book that you want to get involved in the printed version.
Without any additional programs, print all the book by dividing it on 26 notebooks. Paper decided to take a good, dense120g / m2. The book plans to be weighty :)
I miss all office processes related to printing and start the sacrament :)
After breaking the book by 26 notebooks, we begin to stitch them. Before that, it is necessary to outline the location of the seam. To do this, we make one not a cunning adaptation called a carriage with which it is quite smoothly picked up in the notebooks of the place of future stitches.
The carriage is represented by two aluminum corners and wooden lies. In the corners, drill holes under the needle on the distance we need and placing the notebook between the corners make punctures.
It turns out quite smoothly and quickly. You can sew on the contreels, but for such a thick book it is not good.
We sew a book for three cords and at the end of the process, add the bottle with alcohol at the end of the process (if you do not have a bottle of alcohol, then the medical book never happens :)
Next is the process of the circulation of the root and its sickness.
Cutting a block of block edge of the block and for the smoothness to be shedding with a shallow fraction of abrasive.
Then I decided to experiment a little and painted the crop of three sides of the paint.
When everything is drying to weaving the captal. The process is creative and laborious. But interesting.
Capital will be two-color.
For the foundation cut off the strip of dense skin.
On the front side I plan to place a symbolic copper bas-relief.
I will not show his creation process, I have a separate detailed master class on the galvanic.
We grow it immediately with several future stamps (electricity economies :)).
Standard processing steel brush and polishing.
The snake was served by my old army pettle.
Now proceed to the cover.
On the cardboard sides, approximately we want what we want :) What is your fantasy for now much.
I chose a carved multi-level lid.
The artist is with me a curve, therefore we draw everything on the computer.
For the cover, I chose a beige haberdashery skin with pearlescent glitter.
With the help of a bone, smooth the skin to the relief on the binding lid.
I will have a book with clasps. Making pupils by type sandwich. Two layers of the skin as on the cover, and between them dense, rigid skin. This is probably more decorative element than the need.
Wasters will cling to the brown buttons built into the front cover.
Copper decoration stick into her niche moment. (Second glue I do not use because of the fact that this infection never glues anything except fingers :)
We send for a day under the press.
Fur decorate beetles.
Here is the book :)
The butterfly is not to the place here, but it did not paint it, grabs my housekeepers :)
Thank you for attention.
The following restore the old Tomik A.S. Pushkin torn and without a cover.
Quote Messages Galina_andreyevna_555 How to cross the book (hardcover).
This is an article from the site "Country on the contrary" Author, Elena Fedoseev.
Why merge the books? Well, for example, you wrote a novel or a collection of poems and want to give them friends, but you have no money to the printing house. Or downloaded the favorite book from the Internet and want to have it not only in electronic form, but also in the usual paper.
I faced the problem of solid binding when a local history collection IM has prepared for the press Ulyanova (two-volume) and wanted to print it in the printing house at his own expense, no more than 50 copies. The collection had a large number of color pictures, and it turned out that it would be unnecessarily expensive. Then I decided to print it myself - at home, on your own laser printer. The cost of printing turned out to be quite acceptable and I successfully printed the first few copies, intending to give them into the binding to a professional binding workshop. The binding I wanted certainly solid, necessarily with a super bind so that the book looks beautiful. It turned out, however, that the cost of solid binding exceeds the cost of printing, and then I had to think. All together (printing + binding) It turned out too expensive ...
The output was one - intertwined the most. After listening to the tips of the husband, in childhood had a set "Young Twister", and finding a couple of articles on the Internet (who turned out to be the experience, not too good), I began to work. The first pancake turned out to be a com (the articles found some essential details were not reflected), but the second turned out to be quite durable and beautiful, at least I was quite pleased with the result.
. Books that you can do yourself.
Of course, it is impossible to achieve typographic quality at home (the biggest problem - with cropping edges), but if you need a book not for sale, but as a gift option (as it was in my case) or for home use, it is quite suitable. In addition, the "gift" can be emphasized by playing with the color of the cover and its design - the expanser for fantasy here is a lot.
The hardcover turned out to be a matter of very interesting, simple and surprisingly cheap (it remains only to be surprised why he is so expensive in binding workshops), accessible to everyone and a man, and a woman, and a child. Neither special equipment, nor expensive tools, nor the place - everything can be done on the kitchen or writing desk, using almost the "rented" means. I want to share here my experience, maybe he will come in handy to anyone.
1. Two boards
2. Two clamps
3. Metal Pilka
4. Tassel for glue
6. Paper knife
Thick white threads or not too thick white rope.
Material type gauze, but tougher. It can be bought in the "Fabric" store - similar material is used to strengthen the sides of the jackets, and the like. Marley is also suitable, but it is difficult to cut smoothly.
Cardboard (any color) - for a rigid cover. Cardboard must be very dense and almost negligent. If such a cardboard is hard to buy, you can use the usual, but then it is necessary to glue it into two or three layers.
Colored paper (for covers). Paper will suit any. The best is not too thin and not too thick, let's say something mean between the watman and wrapping paper (by density).
Binding book with your own hands
Mateled roller for the root. This is the most problematic (in terms of purchase) an element. Look at the root of any purchased book in solid binding, and you will see what you need. Buy it, however, is difficult. At first, for the absence of a roller, I used just a braid with a similar can be from the "Fabric" store. Then I managed to buy what you need in a specialized store, but it was not so easy to find it. This item is purely decorative, closing what remains inside the root, so in principle you can do without it.
Spine with roller; Strips with roller bought in a specialized store.
Before starting work, look carefully how any store book is done in hardcover, try to look inside the root to have an idea of how your book should look like. For the first time I advise you to try on "waste" so that it was not sorry to throw away. The second instance can be done already raid.
Step No. 1.
brush for glue;
So, you have a thick stack of printed pages. The format of them can be any (in my case - A5). Now you need to level the edge as much as possible. You can align, tapping with different sides of the stack of a smooth table, watching no page to be pulled out. Especially needed to monitor the left and upper edges - where the root will be, and the one that will be visible when the book stands on the shelf. Two other edges are not so important.
When the edges have become quite smooth, very carefully (in order not to knock them down) put the stack on the table or on the board (so as not to get the table with glue), the root to myself, so that the edge of the stacks is slightly braked outside the table (then it is more convenient to smear it ). From above very carefully (again, so as not to bring down the edges) put some temporary cargo, say, the book. Then thick smear the plow glue root and give a slightly dry (2-3 minutes enough).
You can, of course, print a book from "Tetradok", how is done in printing houses - most printers it allows. But then there are two problems.
It will be necessary to sew each notebook manually, which will take time, especially if the book is fat and in each, say, 20 notebooks (in one notebook usually 16 sheets).
It will be necessary to cut the edges, because In notebooks they will never be smooth. My experience has shown that smoothly cut the edge at home is almost impossible, so I stopped on printing with individual sheets - the edges then look much better. The binding is obtained quite strong, it will not "break", and practically does not "eat" the left field (so that when printing the left and right fields can be left identical).
When glue slightly drop and move the pack is no longer so scary, take off the temporary cargo and carefully shifted the future book a little further from the edge of the table or the board so that the root no longer hung. Top put on the second board (so that the root is not branded, but it was pressed from above), tightly pinch all two clamps and leave for a few hours to dry. (It is believed that completely PVA glue dries in 12 hours, but at this stage there will be 3-4 hours). This initial gluing is necessary in order to make it easier to cut - so that the packs of sheets are stronger than keeping together and would not move.
Step number 2.
Remove the clamps and again shift the pack and boards to the edge of the table again, so that the boards protrude beyond the edge of the centimeter table 3 (so that it is not to cut the table with a lacaround), and the edge of the paper stack drove to the edge of the boards by 2 millimeters. Clear all clamps. Place a pencil sticking edge to smooth intervals (I do 2 cm). In places marking a sawmill for a metal, they make the separations of 1 mm deep. Watch that the feeders are smooth and strictly perpendicular to the root.
Now we need glue, brush and rope. The rope is inserted into the propulsion, the thickness of it should be such that it is in the propellants pretty tight. If you use threads, they must be twisted at 5-6 times. Rope, if too thick, can be broken into parts. Duties and rope are needed to strengthen the root - they hold it quite firmly and the root is not "rehearsed", as often happens in glued shopping books. Without this, your book can just fall apart.
At this stage, you need to have a predetermined gauze and rollers. Marla Cry so: the length should be 1 cm less than the length of your root. The width is equal to the width of the root + 2 cm along both edges. If, say, your root 21 x 2 cm, then the march should be 20 x 6 cm. The rollers need two, the width of each equal to the width of the root.
We must still have a strip of paper, which passes on the root on top of gauze and rollers, so as not to smear the hands with glue, smoothing gauze to the root. This paper can be any, it will not be visible. I use ordinary brown wrapping paper. Its dimensions in length - by 7-8 mm less than the root length, and the width is equal to the width of the root.
When everything is ready, start the process:
Gustly smear the flames of the root with the propuls, following the adhesive glue into each cut. Insert into each sheltered rope (I also smear them with glue), so that the ends stick them to 2-3 cm. For protruding ends, pull up the ropes so that they sat tightly in the propil. Again, smear everything with glue and stick gauze, then rollers. All this is on the outside. Again with glue and stick a strip of paper, smoothing it to the root, so that everything is going together. In this form, everything must be left overnight to dry well.
Stage number 3 (next day)
The internal block of the future book is ready. Remove the clamps, cut the unnecessary ends of the rope with a knife.
Further will be done by fors. They must be of dense watman paper, because They carry half of the structural load - it is on them (and on marl) and the cover is held. (They, by the way, can be colored, not necessarily white). If your book is A5, then the forged A4 format, folded in half. It is necessary to cut it out a little bit, because From the side of the root, the ends of the ropes face, they will interfere with the walls of the mow. (Cutting them absolutely no longest). When the forboat is complicated, expect for the book and cut, squeeze the strip of the strip in the fold (3-4 mm) and stir on the block. Then turn the book, and get another. Leave under the press at least half an hour, but for now you can do the cover.
First we cut cardboard. This is a solid base of the cover, consists of three separate parts - two identical to the size of the crustaceans and the root. Corks should be at a height of 8 mm higher than the height of your glued block (so that on each side stick to 4 mm), and in width - are equal to the block. Those. If your A5 format block, i.e. 21 x 14.8 cm, then the sizes of crusts 21.8 x 14.8 cm. The spine in height should be equal to crusts (21.8 cm in the case of A5), and in width - equal to the thickness of your block. It may be of a thinner cardboard.
You choose the paper suitable color, reproducing it:
In height, it should be beyond the limits of cardboard crusts by 2-3 cm on each side. In width (dance from the middle): the width of the root + 8 mm interval on each side, + the width of the cardboard crusts on each side + 2-3 cm on each side (see photo). On the inside of the paper, it would be nice to make marking, it makes it easier for layout.
Next is gluing. Mashae glue one side of the crusts and the root, stick, press. Diagonal cut the edge of the paper (with an indent 3-4 mm from the angle). Majet glue protruding edges, bend them on crusts, press. At this stage, the cover is better to leave at least an hour. In principle, the cover is ready.
Then the question arises its design. Even if a superstar is planned, then the author's name and name (or in my case, the volume number) should still be written on the cover and on the root. How to do it? Not everyone, even architects, can absolutely make the inscription manually. I tried to write on a stencil, but it turns out inactively. The solution has come such: to print a somewhat modified dust jacket with the author and volume number, and then stick. Just, but it looks, from my point of view, quite decent.
We stick up a printed name on the cover. It is better to do it with pencil marking - that the inscription on the root is in the center, and nothing would come anywhere. Cover is ready.
Next comes not difficult, but the responsible moment is to glue together the internal unit and the cover. This moment requires great accuracy, so the fitter is first needed. Insert the block into the cover, so that the edges of the cover are sticking out evenly, and at the corners of the forboats necessarily make a pencil mark.
Majet glue one edge of gauze, stick to the mow. Now smear the whole of the mourning with the gauze. In order for the excess adhesive to do not glue the pages, a sheet of paper can be paved inside the mouse. Raise the book (the cover is lying on the table), turn over the smeared by the mouse down and glue the floor to the cover, starting from the edges - combining the edges of the mousetz with pencil marks.
We put the book on the table (glued part of the down) and smear the glue by gauze on the other side, stick to the mow, then smear the whole second forzatc. My experience has shown that on the most convenientness simply to "put" the cover on the atmosphere, without raising the book. Usually, in this way the edge of the mouse is the smaller of all combined with pencil marks, but still need to be checked whether the corners are combined, and if not, then until the glue is dry, align them.
By the root, you can spend wooden lecturers (or just an angle of the plastic line), but carefully not to break the paper. It gives the root "sharpness".
Now you need to put a book under the press for the whole night so that it is good.
By morning your book is fully ready.
Superobica is just a sheet of paper (sized it easily). The only moment you need to take into account - to make the final design of the superstar, after the first solid binding is ready - only then you will know exactly the size of your book. (When the format of the A5 pages and the height of the cardboard crusts is 21.8 mm, the super binding height is exactly 22 cm (paper that is covered with cardboard, also gives thickness).
When the format of the book A5, the length of the superobrian is a little more than A3. I print it on two sheets A4 (paper needs good quality) and gluing from the inside scotch. On the sides (which will be bent into the inside) THINKING the white stripes to the required width. Since the dust pack is made, outside the gluing is almost imperceptible.
Many people are fond of not reading, but writing their works (prose and poems). As soon as work on literary creation ends, the question immediately arises how to overwhelm the book with their own hands at home. Binding books at home is also interested in those who download literature from the Internet and prints it on sheets A4. In fact, it is not so difficult to arrange the book, as it seems at first glance. Moreover, there are many ways to cope with this task on their own.
All people who had to order binding books in the workshop, admit that such a service is worth a lot of money. But if you learn to intertwine printed editions with your own hands with the help of girlfriend, you can save significantly.
First of all, a method should be considered that allows you to make a hardcover for a thick book. What will you need:
Thick sewing threads of white or rope;
The material that resembles a dense gauze (such a jacket boards);
Color paper that will be used to design a book cover;
All you need for independent binding
The work on the creation of binding consists of such steps:
The preparatory stage, without doubt, can be called the most responsible, because all pages will have to align, of which the book will be. To align the edges, you should take a pile of pages and knock it on a solid surface several times. Aligned along the edges of the page need to be put on the board, and the root of the future book should "look" on the masters. The edge of the stack should be slightly played over the edge of the working surface.
The stack should be very careful, so as not to knock her down, put some weightlifier. Then you should take a brush, dip it in PVA glue and thickly lubricate the root of the future book.
After 2-3 minutes after the glue slightly snacks, you need to remove the weightlifier from the stack, and then push the pile of pages from the edge of the working surface so that it does not send anymore. After a stack, you should put the second board, tightly compress all two clamps. Everything needs to be left in such a state for 3-4 hours. This time is necessary so that PVA glue is completely dry.
After removing the clamps, it is necessary to re-move the stacks with the boards to the edge of the surface, and so that the board protrudes over the edge of the table by 3 cm. At the same time, the paper stack should appear over the edge of the boards by 2 millimeters. It should be fixed again with clamps.
Next, take a pencil and spread the sticking edge to them. There should be several two-chamber intervals. Then you need to take a pylon for the metal and inscribe these markup tools (the size of each propyl should not exceed 1 millimeter). All feeds should be the same.
At this stage of work, glue, brush and rope take. The thickness of the latter should be such that it is tightly entered into the cuts. If the threads are used instead of the rope, then you need to twist the likeness of the rope.
We proceed to the cutting of gauze and therapy. The length of the pieces of gauze should be 1 cm shorter than the root of the book. Marley width should be equal to the width of the root, but it should add 2 centimeters on the sides. You should also separate 2 kaptsal (the width of each coincides with the width of the root). The edges of the capotyls need to be slightly lubricated with glue. You should also prepare a strip of paper. Its length will be 7 millimeters less than the length of the root. The width of the strip is similar to the width of the root.
Take a brush, dip it in glue and begin to be densely to apply it on the root with the propellants done. At the same time, it is necessary to ensure that the glue fell into each propyl. The rope or twisted threads also need to be soaked with glue. In each propyl need to insert the rope, but so that its ends protrude by 2-3 centimeters. For these tips, you need to pull well so that the rope (harness) is fixed in propyl. Then, on the root, you need to apply glue, stick after that gauze, and after - the captives. On top of the coupling should be applied again and paste a strip of paper. Paper carefully smoothed to the root of the future book. The glue will dry throughout the night. As soon as it dries, we can assume that the inside of the binding is ready.
At this stage, the design of the book in the binding you need to remove the clamps and trim the tips of the rope (the harness of the threads).
After the work done, you can proceed to the manufacture of beads. They can be made from both monophonic and colored paper. How to determine the size of the mow? The answer is simple - if the book is performed in the A5 format, then the forcedation must have A4 format folded in half. At the same time, the outer edge of the mall should be a little shorten, because the ends of the ropes protruding near the root will interfere with the sticking of the mow.
Before sticking the forged, you should make sure that it has correct dimensions. After that, you need to lubricate the band by glue near the bend and stick it on the block. The same should be done with the second side of the book. After almost the finished binding, you need to put a weight loss and engage in creating the cover.
How to make a cover?
First of all, you should do a cardboard that will play the role of the cover seal. First of all, it needs to be uncalled. On the cardboard sheet, 2 crusts and spine should be placed. The width of the crusts should be equal to the width of the blocks, while their length should on each side exceed the length of the block by 4 millimeters. How to cut decorative paper: in height, it must be 2-3 centimeters longer than crusts (on each side). The width of the cover for the cover should on each side exceed the root of 8 millimeters. As for gluing, it should be performed as follows: one side of the crustaceans and the root is smeared with glue, after which they are glued and pressed. The edges of the paper are then cut down diagonally with an indent of 4 millimeters from the corner.
The protruding edges are then lubricated with glue, bend them on their crusts, smooth. Then it is necessary to put a weight loss on the cover, which in 1 hour can be removed. Make up the cover, guided by personal preferences. It can be decorated with applications, glossy paper, bulk compositions, etc.
If the book is fine, then its design in the binding will be simpler. For example, if the book consists of forty-sheets (or eighty pages), then the sheets need to be folded in half and sew them in the middle by a swivel stapler. Such a book will remind a school notebook.
You can also buy a thick notebook on springs with perfectly clean sheets. The spring should be removed, and on clean sheets to print a book, after which it is back to tail them. For this, the spring must be gently clipped with fingers, pressing on each of its tooth.
There is another method of manufacturing a book, but first of all the printer should print pages from which it will consist. Then you need to divide everything into several stacks consisting of 20 pages. With the help of the hole, you should make holes in the pages. The holes must be at the same distances from each other, otherwise the book will turn out to be a curve. After it is recommended to prepare a dense folder-folder, sheets into which are sewn with metal brackets. When you buy such a folder, you should pay attention to the sizes of the bracket - all sheets should not be sewn in principle, otherwise the book will be difficult to use.
If a person has often to make reels for books, then for this work it is recommended to purchase special equipment, for example, a typewriter for the manufacture of bindings, equipped with plastic springs. There is such a machine no more than thirty dollars. The equipment can sew up to five hundred sheets, and it is very simple to use it. You can also find cars that cross the sheets on the springs from the metal, but they will be more expensive. In addition, machines with metal springs can sew up to 130 sheets 1 time.
For the manufacture of books, you can also purchase an apparatus called metalund. The device can sew a maximum of 600 sheets at a time. It is worth such equipment no more than two hundred dollars. The device tightly compresses the pages with metal brackets along the block. By the way, the metals brackets can be repeatedly used. After connecting the metal bracket can be used to firmware other books.
From the listed ways of registration of books in the bounds, everyone can choose for themselves optimal!
Each home library owner will certainly have several favorite publications, which he has read more than once and reread. Frequent appeal to books does not add "Health" to them - replete bounds, pages are polluted.
The book loses its original gloss, but it does not lose its attractiveness. And now the moment comes when the owner of the publication wants to restore him, and then the question is how to make a binding for the book with your own hands, becomes relevant.
Production of bookbinding book at home
Books are different - usual multi-page editions in solid crankhorov or in soft bindings, homemade, printed on the printer, handwritten. And the bindings are different - stitched or glued, soft folders, folders - depending on whom and how the book was produced.
Required tools for the manufacture of binding for the old book do it yourself
Thick sewing threads of white or rope;
But sometimes you need to make a binding of the book with your own hands, and for such that the binding was, but it became unusable. The quality of such a binding will be slightly lower than that professionally performed on special equipment, but it will be your brainchild, made with love, and designed as you want.
Before proceeding with work, you will need to prepare the appropriate tools and materials for binding of books with your own hands:
White paper sheets or tracing Format A4, in the amount of 32 pieces;
Book glue or PVA glue;
leather, felt, fabric (any material suitable);
Stapler with long shoulder;
Dense rubber ring for fixing paper;
acute knife or scalpel;
Large stationery clips.
Prepare all the materials and tools, you can start collecting the hardcover of the book with your own hands.
Solid Binding of the Book Your Hands - Step-by-step instructions
First of all, four solid blocks should be made. 32 sheet paper (tracing) divide into four parts, eight sheets in each. Thoroughly align sheets in each pack, and carefully recycle each pack in half.
Go to your fingers in the collar to fix it. Take over all four stacks and turn them over to the opposite side.
Stapler with a long shoulder to bore an octastic stack along the fold line. If there is no stapler with a long shoulder, you can use the usual stapler.
In the case of the application of a standard stapler, the pages should be copped with both external and the inner side. Cut a piece of fabric equal to the size of the sheet height.
Choosing a cloth for binding work, you need to keep in mind that the fabric should be dense and thick. A large stationery clip or rubber ring fasten the sheets of stacks. Put a stack vertically on the side, and put glue on the upper side.
Solid binding manufacturing scheme for old book
When applying glue, you must carefully follow so that it does not get intoward, between the sheets.
On the side to attach a carved piece of fabric. It must be done before dried down the glue.
To fit the sizes of the stack under the size of the book, it should, if necessary, carefully trim the scalpel on the metal line. Put a stack on the cardboard, mark the circuit marker on the cardboard, retreating five millimeters for each edge.
Cut cardboard and make some more such copies. Separately prepare a cardboard rectangle under the size of the end of the book.
All cardboard parts lay out on the fabric. Stand on the border tissue with a width of 25 millimeters and cut the material.
Apply glue to cardboard, and put it on the fabric - a crust - the face - crust. Between all the details there must be an equal interval.
Next you need to smear the edges of the fabric and sequentially glue them to the cardboard. Then to the sides close to the end cardboard, glue two strips of cotton paper and apply glue on them.
To put a text block on the end card. It will not stick to the end cardboard, but only to paper stripes.
While the glue will dry, you need to fix the design in a vertical position. Actually, on this, the manufacture of solid binding can be considered completed.
Fastening a book in grinding books for binding
Cosmetic work remained. First of all - the substrate. You need to choose the appropriate paper, lubricate the inner side of the solid cover and the first sheet of the text block.
This operation should be done on both sides. In this example, a tissue was used for solid binding.
But you can also make a binding for a book from felt with your own hands. A little more difficult because of the invoice, but the leather binding of the book is made on the same technique.
Soft binding for a book with your own hands - how to make
Unlike solid, make a mild cover with their own hands much easier.
Required tools for making soft binding for book at home
For its manufacture, you will need tools and materials that are used to repair book bindings with their own hands:
dense (glossy) cover paper;
Prepare everything you need can be started.
Making soft binding
The embroidered text unit should be smoothly put on the board and carefully align the edges for a ruler. On top and bottom of the text block, put on a clean sheet of page pages format.
The edges of these leaflets that perform the functions of the drafts are leveled under the ruler. From above on the text unit gently put the second board, watching not the moves of individual parts and leaves.
Making sure that the text block lies between the boards smoothly, clamp the design of the clamps. The text block is fitted between the boards so that approximately half acemeter the root is free, outside the boards.
With the help of adhesive gun, apply a thick layer of glue on the root. The layer thickness should be from two to three millimeters.
Soft Binding Making Algorithm for Book
The glue layer should be uniform, so it should be quickly dissolved either by the pistol itself or a piece of smooth plastic. This operation should be done quickly so that the glue does not have time to grab.
The next stage is the preparation of the cover. Initially, the thickness of the text block is measured.
From the axial line of the cover sheet to postpone left and right at half the measured thickness of the root. To spend two straight lines parallel to the axial.
Add one more centimeter on each side. Putting on the resulting line a ruler, carefully bend the cover of the cover.
For consolidation, it should be safely spent several times with a stupid side of the scissors along the fold line. After the glue is dry, gently separate the sheets-drafts.
Insert the glued text block into the cover and secure the brackets. Install the iron work surface up, turn it on and warm it well.
It is evenly to warm the root until the cover is reliably glued to it. Final operation - cropping covers from three sides under the format of the text block.
The described methods are the simplest, but not the only ones. Using these ways, you can shelter your hands the binding of leather books.
If your library has dilapidated editions in both solid and soft bindings, then the described methods can make a complete restoration of books of books with their own hands.
Video: how to make a book binder
Recently, a few articles appeared on Habré about how it can be convenient to read technical and fiction. Hot controversy flared on electronic readers and methods of printing the desired material.
In my article I would like to in more detail on questions about the print itself (how to make this process quick and convenient) and the manufacture of books from available materials.
Some time ago I wanted to read the cycle of Douglas Adams "Hitchhikeh in the Galaxy". I tried to read several translations and did not suit me. Therefore, it was decided to read in English! Find these books in the original in our bookstores is quite difficult. And if there is, then only the first part of the cycle. Electronically find some easier. But I prefer to read from paper (I must buy a reader on E-ink - I like it), so I print books.
The first two books looked like this:
I read them with great pleasure, but they looked not very good. And I decided that
Life, The Universe, and Everything
"You need to make a book.
Process with pictures and comments under the cut. Caution, really many pictures.
It would seem that it may be easier to printed a book? But there are some important points.
First, you need to choose the right paper. All paper that is produced by an industrial method on the CBK has a clearly pronounced direction of the fibers. Only printers are available to the absolute majority of readers that can print no more A4 format on sheets. Almost all paper of this format (I tried about 20 stamps) has the direction of the fibers along the long side (the short-k-short-side is much worse than the long-to-long). Try yourself and immediately understand what we are talking about. We are also ideally needed that the fibers are along the short side. Unfortunately, the packaging of ordinary office paper on this parameter is not marked. Of those 20 grades, everyone was "unsuitable." Taken in quotes because the result is not much worsening, and I believe that if you do not have the right paper, it does not make sense and print on the one that is.
Secondly, pages on bookstones are not in order.
We will make a classic book. This means that in each notebook of the book block we will have 16 pages of A5-4 format A4 sealing on both sides and bent in half.
We start with creating a layout. I used OpenOffice Writer (hereinafter - OOO). Select the desired headset and font box, set the fields, number the pages. Please note that Kell should be more desirable. A little later will understand why. We save and export to PDF.
OOW does not know how to print pages in random order. That is, if you set the numbers of the pages 16 and 1, then it will first print the first page, and then sixteenth. But Foxit Reader, which I use to view and work with PDF, does everything as needed. In the printer settings, select the landscape orientation of the sheet, and the FoxitReader print settings are two pages on one sheet. Here we use an increased font size, because the real page size will decrease.
Page numbers are very convenient to calculate in the table editor.
Each two lines indicate the procedure for printing pages of one notebook. First, print one side (8 pages), then turn the paper and print the second side.
Calculator can be
Print more than one notebook can be risky at a time. First you need to figure out the features of the paper feed on a specific printer. Yes, and then work with notebooks. So print one notebook - our choice.
Collect book block
That's what we did:
In my case, this is 8 notebooks.
There are many ways to make binding and stitching a book block, I will talk about those who use himself.
First you need to bend the notebook in half. Here we would especially use sheets with the right direction of fibers. You can bend each sheet individually, and you can - notebook (4 sheets) entirely. I prefer the second option. It seems to me that so the notebook turns out to be more solid. A spoon on the previous photo was not left of the lunch - it is very convenient for it to press the fold line.
Further step is desirable, but not required. It would be nice to hold the bent edge of all notebooks in a special press. But without fanaticism, otherwise there is a risk of remember notebooks.
While the notebook under the press, we need to place a template for piercing holes. Take a piece of cardboard. We indicate the edges (210 mm - on the sheet format). For sewing a book block, we will use a 5 mm wide ribbon. In order for the bookk block to be very strong, we will sew it into three tapes. The distances between the holes under the tape take 6-7 mm. And by hole at a distance of 10 mm from the edge. In the picture, everything is clearly visible.
Look for the collapse every notebook.
Purify the sewing hole from the inside. That's what we get outside.
Big pieces of tape and glue them at the desired distance from each other with scotch. Glue to the most edge of the table. So the most convenientness.
When applying glue, you must carefully follow so that it does not get intoward, between the sheets.
What a notebook (from the first or last) start - no matter. The main thing is not to confuse their order. The pages are needed to closely. Otherwise you have to redo. I want to immediately noticate that until the gluing of the book block we can change everything that we want.
Here you can take a break, relax a little. Because the sewing block is a very important part of the build of the book.
Sew! For sewing, I use threads for embroidery. They are strong, obedient, multicolored, quite thick and they are very easy to find. Have you ever seen a book stitched with a lilac thread? I also did not see. That is why we take a bright. Independence is one of the reasons for all this.